Remember...

So I watched The Lion King last night.

Lion

Bit of fun this time to get back into the swing of things...

Stitches

Another grossish one.

For anyone interested in how I did this: I put down a layer of spirit gum onto my forehead, let it partially dry. Then arranged wax into a long sausage shape (I had to roll it in sections because it melts really quickly on your hands and when it touches the skin). I spread out the edges into my skin, using a wee bit of moisturiser at the end to smooth everything, leaving a long thin mound.

I made the "cut" through the center of the wax using the edge of a pair of tweezers. After that I gently applied foundation, powder, grease paint in the cut, more powder.

For the stitches I took a long piece of black thread, tying it in many knots to form a ling line of knots. I had to anchor the thread around a pen so that the knots would go to the same place. Then i snipped them into stitches lengths, used tweezers to dip them in spirit gum and to place over the cut. All that was left was to add more bruising around the cut and of course some fake blood.

Wounds practice

Once again, my lovely assistant Deebs kindly offered to help me practice my bruising, cuts and bullet hole wound.

I could have made the bullet hole deeper, but didn't want to put Deebs through more layers of latex and it was really just a test to see if the method worked. In case anyone wants to know how I did it, I dabbed a layer of liquid latex on the forehead, stuck on a ripped oval shape of tissue and applied another layer of latex on the top. Repeated several times, allowing each layer to dry in between and trying not to layer exactly in the same place to keep the edges thin. Then powdered and used tweezers to (carefully) puncture the middle and eased it open with the round end of a brush to give it its round shape. The rest was grease paint, water based pancake and fake blood.

Old Man Experimental Makeup

I had another crack at aging makeup using a few different techniques in the one look. 

Things that didn't work: 

Latex-coated layers of tissue (This was too lumpy and a difficult texture to work with).

Scar wax (although I did set it with powder and then a layer of latex, it still was too melty. Also hard to apply as contact with skin melts it easily).

Things that did work:

Adding a layer of latex to cheek, stretching skin while it dries (used a hairdryer on cool setting) then when you let go it creates a wrinkled effect. Worked best after a few layers.

Adding blue veins around temples.

As you can see below it's quite a crusty look due to the tissue, I liked the wrinkle effect on the cheeks though.

Les Ballets Trockadero de Monte Carlo Makeup Seminar Notes

A few notes about the excellent makeup seminar I attended with a member of Les Ballets Trockadero, Robert Carter, who kindly invited us to watch him put on his makeup in the dressing room at the Festival Theatre.

These are the steps he took but he made it clear everyone has different preferences and different face shapes, so instead of copying each other, the Trocks work out their own style and shapes to suit their own faces. The dancer we met has done his own makeup for decades and said he uses different colours and different combinations ever night, and has probably never done the exact same makeup twice!

• Block out eyebrows.

• He used a sponge for each of the base colours. Base colour - start on eyebrows and work outwards. You can build up layers or add more in places if necessary to even out skin. Primer is not necessarily needed. Lighter tone base - he put this on top of cheekbones sweeping upwards, in middle of forehead, a thin line down his nose to make it look thinner and under the nose/above top lip. Darker tone - he created a jawline above his natural jaw, a line just under cheekbones - on either side of nose and either side of forehead (basically added a darker line under or around the lighter lines for contouring). This gave an impression of a feminine shape and really changed the way his face looked. Base tones blended using a damp sponge. Then added dark powder over dark areas and light powder over light areas.

• Eyebrows: the outline was drawn just above natural brow and then filled in (remember eyebrows are sisters not twins)

• He did apply some primer onto his eyes before adding a very bright eye cream colour. He said he normally adds the bright colour first before contouring with the darker colour. A dark powder was used for contouring the eyes, working just above natural crease and under the eye sweeping out and up at the outer sides for a more cat-like look. It starts as quite a harsh line but he blends it to make it look like the natural crease of the eye. He used a liquid liner above top lashes, flicking out as well. Puts on mascara.

• Leaving the liquid liner to set, he added blusher and then a very light powder under the eyes/on cheekbones and eyebrows to highlight. For the lips he used a burgundy lip liner first, extending to the very corners of the lips. he then used a lovely bright pink colour as well as a light concealer in the centre of the lips making them look fuller and giving the colour a gradient. He says the lipstick does last the whole show so he doesn't need to prime or set with powder.

• Lastly the lashes go on - always wait 30-40 secs for glue to become tacky before you apply. It can be helpful to hold them with tweezers. He also said that during the show he just needs to blot between scenes sometimes, but hardly has to reapply.

He then put on a hairband and the wig, which he makes a pony tail (Russian style - over the ears) with and twists two strands, pinning them into a bun. He adds a hair net over the bun and then pins on his hair piece. He also got his full costume on for us - sparkly white bodice/tutu, tights and ballet shoes.

I hope I've remember everything! There is a photo gallery and more info about Mr Carter on the Trockadero website (if you'd like to see the results of the makeup!)  http://trockadero.org/dancers/robert-carter/

Latex & Sponge Nose

Following on from my previous post, I decided to explore the use of sponge & latex to add bulk.

I found it took a while for the sponge to become tacky enough to stick, and to be moulded. Once it did, it was quite effective, although perhaps not suitable for creating a smooth natural skin surface, particularly as the layers created a lot of bumps and ridges.

 I constructed the nose using about 20 thin layers of sponge, cut into different shapes according to where they were being placed, and moistened with latex. I added a couple of extra layers of latex on top to seal the  outer sponge holes. If I had constructed the nose a little more neatly I think the result could have been smoother but this would do for a monster or witchy-type look. I added a little colour using a liquid foundation but I'm sure I could find paint more suitable for latex - will look that up.

All in all, the best solution is probably to create pieces out of silicone set in a mould to make a precise and realistic shape. But as I do not have the materials or space, I will do what I can with my sponge dipped in latex!

The Ballad of Queen Victoria

Here are a few photographs from the Ballad of Queen Victoria Music Video Shoot (31/05/14), taken by Bleu Hope who can be found on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bleuhope.visualartsanddesign/timeline

The band is Elyssa Vulpes and the Betes Noires:
https://www.facebook.com/BetesNoire?fref=ts
http://www.reverbnation.com/elyssavulpes
http://www.themoonwhispers.com/shows

                                                                                                                                                                                                    Photograph by Bleu Hope

                                                                  Photograph by Bleu Hope

                                                                  Photograph by Bleu Hope

                                                                   Photograph by Bleu Hope

                                                                   Photograph by Bleu Hope

                                                                   Photograph by Bleu Hope

                                                                                                                           Photograph by Bleu Hope

                                                                                                 

                                                                                                                           Photograph by Bleu Hope

Barber

My third participant, Emma, kindly offered to help me practice another look using latex. At first I had plans for her to be Mediterranean-looking strongman, but this turned into an old fashioned barber with the use of a few costume props.  

Emma (woman)

Emma (man)

The latex chin and jaw was made very quickly using cotton wool. I think it would have been better with some putty and a bit of latex on the top to hold it in place. It came out looking pretty crusty - even being able to make it in advance would have been better I think. I would love to work with gelatine prosthetics as they can just melt into the skin and blend in more easily.

I stuck on the moustache and sideburns with spirit gum and used a fairly dark foundation to cover the face and prosthetics. I also thickened the eyebrows a little and gelled her hair down.

Pictures below show a stripped back version with a smaller moustache, then just without the fake jaw.

Thanks again to Emma for her help!

Ye Olde Saucy Gentleman

Once again Deebs was asked to help me practice the male version of a Victorian look. One idea for the music video I've had since is to have the girls dressed as men with devilish goatees and the men dressed as ladies of the night, as the concept of the song is quite tongue-in-cheek and involves questions of sexuality.

This time I put a the wig on Deebs which I had styled previously out of my cheap "old lady" wig. Then I had a good look at him and got an idea of what I wanted to do, took the wig off to apply the basic prep and base makeup and then put it back on to complete the rest of the look so that it would incorporate the wig.

I have to say this was a fun one to do, and quicker than normal I think because I planned it out and gave it some thought before I slapped on the makeup.

Lucha Libre 2

My second shot at the Luchador inspired look had a more Mexican feel. I planned it out more carefully this time but the finished effect doesn't come across as particularly original I feel. Still, it's a bit neater than last time and was closer to what I planned to achieve.

After drawing a rough outline in white mixed with a little silver I neatened it up with a forget-me-not kind of colour. Royal blue would have been too much against the red.

Apologies for the aggressive expression - was squinting a bit due to the sunlight. The design was based off the traditional "blue devil" wrestling mask with a bull element. I think I need to get my hands on a costume or props for inspiration and to add to the look of the makeup. 

A particular style of theatre which had been of interest to me is abstract/surreal theatre. Colleagues of mine have recently pointed me in the direction of Theatre of the Absurd, Theatre of Cruelty and In Yer Face theatre (the latter movement came about more recently I think). A particularly surreal production that inspired me was "Les Mamelles de Tiresias" by Macha Makeieff, written by Guillaume Appolinaire. The set design along with costume and makeup create a circus-like world which is constantly transforming and features an unexpected mixture of styles from different times, creating an imaginary by-gone era all by itself. My father played the 'ring leader' of the opera and his costume was out of this world: a bald cap with a few bright blue feathers coming out the top-middle of his head, dark blue glittering eyes - one with clockwork orange style lower eyelashes - and a shimmering blue harlequin suit. I will see if I can get a picture to put up here.

Lucha Libre

One of the many things which has inspired me recently is Mexican wrestling and in particular, the masks traditionally worn by Luchadors. The main aspect which attracts me to this is the colour and boldness which would work well on stage I think. The challenge here was making the look appear mask-like as my first attempts ended up being too tribal. This might have been because I am still mostly making the design up as I go so other influences affect what I'm doing.

My trial here was relatively unsuccessfully in terms of the look I wanted to create - I chose too tribal a pattern and the colours were earthy (brown, yellow and red) so it wasn't bold or detailed enough to give the impression of a wrestling mask. Looking at this picture now, the outline is not strong enough either. It definitely looks better in black and white with a bit of editing.

    

Again, could improve on outline but it's starting to take shape into a more menacing mask. Added a bit of black to one side to try and make it look like it was on the surface - not sure if it worked or not.

I think I will have another crack at this one - I'd like to incorporate more of a Mexican style into it and plan out exactly what I'm going to do.

First attempts; bruising and ageing

Welcome to my theatrical makeup design blog. To briefly explain how I started doing this, I have always had an underlying connection with theatre, my father was a singer/actor and whilst growing up I was involved in a drama group for several years. I studied Fine Art at university for 4 years, after which I was struggled to keep drawing and painting. But now that I work in the Kings and Festival Theatres (Edinburgh) I get the chance to see a lot of productions and this has rekindled my connection with theatre and has given me another creative outlet. Stage makeup seems to be quite a natural avenue to go down for me and has been an interest of mine for a long time.The first few posts I put up here may not show me looking my best, and I hope my technique will improve, however this gives an idea of what I've been up to and will at least track any progress I've made.

For the firsts few attempts I was limited to using what I had in my own makeup bag. One of the first basic looks I attempted was an old man/woman and then a bruised/black eye. Felt like a normal way to start off with as I'd already had a go at these during my drama club days.

I'll show the bruised pictures first to give an impression of what I look like in comparison to the "old lady" photos.

I didn't go overboard with this - now that I have a few more materials at hand I may be able to give the impression of swelling and more intensity to the bruises.

The old lady look could also be exaggerated now - by using natural creased in my face whilst making expressions this was quite a simple one to do. Contouring helped a lot in sallowing the cheeks and creating drooping saggy eyes.


Luckily I also had a volunteer model to practice on for my "old man" look.

I feel this one is slightly more exaggerated and more of a suitable theatrical look. Under stage lights though, it may appear too washed out.


The poor quality of the photos also plays a part here - I may need to hire/buy a camera in the future once I feel happy enough with my work. At the moment I've just got the camera on my phone which is not bad but doesn't deal with lighting very well and requires me to touch up the photos an awful lot on Live Photo Viewer.